Liquid Soap Recipes

Deb's Liquid Soap - Crock pot method

Courtesy of Debra Wyatt from Vulcan, Alberta.


I use reverse osmossis water - you can use distilled, tap water should not be used.  All the cooking is done with the lid on the crock pot.

Start with 470 gm of water with 155 gm of Potassium Hydroxide.

When you sprinkle the lye into your water it's quite noisy, more so than the regular lye.  It heats up quite hot, but it's not necessary to cool it before you start.

  • Sunflower Oil    425 gm
  • Coconut Oil       200 gm
  • Castor Oil         42 gm


Put your oils in your crock pot and turn it on high until the oils are melted.  


Now you pour your lye mix slowly into your oils - turn crock pot on low. Stir for a bit to combine the oils and lye together. 


You have to stick blend this for quite a while to get it to trace.  It seems to almost go into trace, then out again.  This takes sometimes close to 30 minutes - I have found that I stick blend for a bit, let it rest for 5 minutes and then stick blend again, I don't see an advantage to wearing out the stick blender.  It's not going to trace any faster if you do it constantly (ask me how I know).

Trace looks like pudding/applesauce - there is no such thing as over blending this stuff.  Just make sure it's a good trace before you leave it to cook.

Check your soap in about 20 minutes.  If there is any separation, stir it back in.  Now you just check and stir every 30 minutes or so.  I put a timer on.

This stuff goes through all kinds of stages.  When I first started making Liquid Soap I would use a potatoe masher and make sure I mixed and stirred the heck out of this stuff, because it does get quite solid.  Now I let it go through the solid stage, I just kind of flip the whole thing over in the crock pot and break it up a bit with my spoon.  It eventually relaxes into a translucent vaseline stage - that is what you are looking for.  This process takes about 4 hours or so (sometimes more).  

At this time, I add 1150 gm of boiling water to the paste. I turn off the crock pot.  Break up the chunks of paste in the water.  Put the lid back on and go to bed!!! (or leave it until the next day).  

I go back and stir, break up chunks.  I will turn the crock pot back on at this time to help the dissolving.  I just put the timer on to check my pot every hour or so - otherwise I forget the thing is turned on.  This is a full crock pot now with all the water in there.

After the paste is completely dissolved in the water - I add 90 gm of glycerin.
Now it's time to neutralize the soap and add fragrance.  This paste was lye heavy to ensure that all the oils are saponified and to ensure a clear soap in the end (this depends on your choice of oils as well).

Make a mixture in a microwavable glass measuring cup (that's what I use).  

  • 30 gm of Borax 
  • 60 gm of Boiling Water

You mix this together to dissolve.  I put it in the microwave and zap it a bit extra because it takes a bit to dissolve.  Also, if you let it cool again the borax separates right back out, so you want to make this right when you need it, not beforehand.

I mix this into my hot liquid soap in the crock pot.  Stir really well.  

The crock pot is turned off now and going to slowly cool down.  When the liquid is still warm but not hot anymore, I add my fragrance.  Depending on the fragrance you add decides how much.  About 60 gm is average, but if it is strong you might want less, if it is soft you might want more.  When I make coconut/lime I use 60 gm of coconut FO and 30 gm of Lime EO.  The flashpoint of the lime is quite low, so you want the liquid just warm. 

I have found that some fragrances make the soap separate (like almond), so that you have paste on top and water consistency on the bottom.  Coconut/Lime works really well, so does Mango FO, White Musk FO.  Peppermint EO does funny things also.  You won't know until you experiment on your own, bottle and let sit for a few days to see. 

This will fill about 10 x 8 ounce (250 mL) bottles.  

This makes a beautiful liquid soap.  It is a little fussy to learn, but it's great fun.  I have tried different oils and have found that this combo works best for me and make a yellow, clear liquid soap that is very gentle.  It is a bit drying because if you were to superfat the soap, it would be cloudy.  I am in the process of experimenting on making a white soap instead so that you can superfat a bit and not have to neutralize with borax.  

Cream Soap Recipe:

Recipe courtesy of Jannie 



  • 7.5 gram - Castor Oil 
  • 2.0 gram - Jojoba Oil 
  • 10.0 gram - Olive Oil 
  • 5.0 gram - Shea Butter 
  • 30.0 gram - Coconut Oil 
  • 20.0 gram - Palm Oil 
  • 90.0 gram - Stearic Acid 
  • 51.2 gram - Glycerin 


Lye Mixture: 

  • Sodium Hydroxide - 5.1 gram 
  • Potassium Hydroxide - 25.4 gram 
  • Water - 91.6 gram 



  • Melted Stearic Acid - 2.5 gram 
  • Glycerin (mix with above Stearic Acid) - 3.7 gram 


Second Measure: 

  • Aloe Juice or Water - 91.6 gram 
  • Aloe Juice (extra, you may not need this) - 25 gram 



  • Allantoin - 4.6 gram 
  • Kaolin Clay - 2.3 gram 
  • Hydrolyzed Silk - 4.6 gram 
  • Goat's Milk Powder - 4.6 gram 



  1. Pre-heat oven to 250 degrees (place a cookie sheet under where your soap pot will rest in case of spills  
  2. Place oils/butters and first glycerin measure in the soap pot. Heat until solids are just melted.  
  3. Add both lyes to the first water measure. Set aside to cool.  
  4. Add the lye water to the oils/butters/glycerin mixture and stick blend until mixture is somewhat smooth and uniform ... work quickly ... once this sets up, it goes very fast.  
  5. Let soap rest for a couple of minutes.  
  6. Place the lid on the pot ... Put in the oven for 45 minutes to 1 hour.  
  7. Check every 15 minutes, stir ... replace the lid  
  8. Heat the stearic acid/glycerin blend until melted ... add to hot soap.  
  9. Turn off the oven. Turn on the oven light. Leave the covered pot in for 24 hours.  
  10. Whip it ... Whip it good! Take a spoon and massage the mass ... when it loosens enough (this takes some time and is hard on the arms).  
  11. Using the stick blender ... Alternate adding Aloe juice and stick blending until it resembles frosting.
  12. Add your additives. Stirring in by hand.  
  13. Transfer to a glass or ceramic dish that has a lid. Cover the bowl/dish and cure for two weeks or longer.  
  14. Whip the soap ... if you are happy with the texture ... you're ready for colour & scent. If the soap is too thin ... let it sit uncovered to evaporate out a bit of the water (a couple of days is good). Too thick? Add a bit of that aloe juice that was held in reserve. Adding by 1/4 tsp. at a time.  
  15. Colour & Scent as desired.  
  16. Packaging ... thicker soap works best in jars ... thinner soap works well in dispensers or tubes.

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